The Osteria La Combriccola (Via Savona, 2 – T: 02 58101464) offers regional menus on a rotational basis: from 7 to 19 March it will be the turn of Umbria, a region in central Italy that produces superior truffles.

And surely the most unusual location for sampling the local choices is ATMosfera, the tram-restaurant that leaves from Piazza Castello and tours Milan while you eat: on Saturdays from 7.30 to 8.30pm it serves typically regional Italian dishes (T: 800 808181).